11 Years Manufacturer Miniature circuit breaker-FTBD Export to Libya


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Protection rating: IP20
Installation: On DIN rail 35mm according to JB6525
Connection capacity: Cross-section of conductors up to 25mm², 
Ambient temperature (°C): Cross-section of conductors up to 25mm²,
Altitude (m): ≦4000m
Relative air humidity: no more than 95%
Pollution degree:
Installation condition: Used in place without obvious shock and vibration
Weight (g): 116 /232

To purchase, visit: http://www.swgr.com/store/circuit-breakers/molded-case/product/SEHA36AT0150,22-11700.aspx

Stock # 22-11700, GENERAL ELECTRIC, Circuit Breaker, Catalog No. SEHA36AT0150, Frame Amps 150, Trip Amps 150, 3 Poles, 600 Volts

TODAY, MIDWEST is the stand-alone leader in its field. MIDWEST combines highly trained, experienced, and dedicated personnel with state-of-the-art equipment and engineering procedures to provide our customers the successful services they need and deserve.

MIDWEST Electrical Testing & Maintenance Co., Inc.
5141 North 35th Street, Milwaukee, WI 53209

I need your advice on handling refrigerator problems after power outage.

If the fridge does not come back on after a power outage, I’d suggest checking the breaker. Whether a breaker tripped and needs to be flipped or a fuse burned out, I don’t know.

I suppose if flipping the breaker does not work, the fuse is the next thing to check.

It is usually obvious if a fuse has burned out.

What do I do if the control panel comes up but the fridge does not cool?

Listen for the fan motors and compressor running. It is possible that the power outage shorted out an electrical component or burned out a motor.

Either of those is expensive to replace.

Not necessarily. If the start relay is clicking when the compressor tries to turn on, you need to replace the start relay, not a major relay.

I do not think they sell starter cap kits for the fridge they way they do for my AC. That requires a service call to fix.

You can see if it is actually the start relay versus an electrical problem by shaking the relay; if it rattles, it needs to be replaced.

I’ve never heard of that, but obviously I need to listen now.

You can also check the prongs connecting to the compressor and check the resistance on each; if there is no continuity, the compressor is not the problem.

What do I do if it is not the compressor or the start relay?

If the compressor is running but the fans are not, you have a different problem, though you might be able to jerry rig a solution to it.

Yeah, put a bag of ice in the fridge and freezer while waiting for service.

A lot of fridges have a PF error message after a power failure. If the error message does not go away, power cycling the fridge again might eliminate the error message.

I’m not used to advice to reboot the fridge as often as a gaming console.

Depending on the fridge model, you may need to turn it back on by touching the control panel power button. On other units, you can put it on power freeze or extra ice to kick it into acting.

That’s essentially resetting the settings by telling it to shift gears.

At least it is something you’re free to try. Try turning down the temperature and see if the compressor and condenser turn on.

And if they do not?

There’s always the possibility the power outage shorted out the control panel, though a reboot to reset it may fix it, and if it does not, you know that needs to be replaced.

I’m as likely to replace the whole fridge as just the control panel, though either technically solves the problem.

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