16 Years manufacturer XJM7-W Measuring Box (Outdoor Energy Measuring Box) Wholesale to Frankfurt
Exterior and dimensions
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XJM7-K measuring cabinet (outdoor street lamp measurement control box) is suitable in power supply line with AC 50HZ, rated insulation voltage 660V, rated voltage 380/220v, as energy measurement equipment of residential quarters, villas energy measurement etc.
In line with GB7251.1-1997 and GB7251.3-1997 standards.
The front motor mount was screwed up because the two rubber pads under it were worn and the mount wouldn’t sit flat, so I ordered two new rubber isolators, drilled the rivets out of the old ones and removed the old isolators, installed the new ones with nylon nuts (per my uncle’s request), and then with the help of my grandfather and my uncle, we lined up the motor and put in the new bolts with lock washers and nuts. It’s all good and tight. I mounted the mule drive/hanger and tried to mount the PTO and drive sheave, but they will need a little work because of the rust. I also hooked up the fuel line to the pump. We even hooked up the throttle and choke cables and I greased them up and adjusted them so they move freely and I checked the governor linkage too, because the Kohler governors can be a little tricky.
Meanwhile, my uncle stuck a pair of vice grips on the variator shaft and we used a punch to drive out the old handle, install a new locking latch, then put on the new handle and button. Then my uncle hooked the variator lever up to the shaft so it moves like it should now! It needs some adjusting, though.
I also bought and installed the pivot plate that mounts to the back of the tractor and is part of the rear lift kit. It is a small pivoting shaft that hooks up to the rear lift rod and pivots back and forth to raise and lower your tiller/sleeve hitch when you move the lift lever. I had to drill the plate mounting holes bigger so my bolts would fit, but I got it to work. Just need the adjusting knob that screws onto it. Now I am ready for a sleeve hitch!
After this video was taken, I also installed the battery cables and grounded them, fixed the wiring to and from the circuit breaker and starter solenoid, dropped in the battery box, and put the battery in. The only wires I still need to worry about are the accessory wire for the hour meter (I’m going to cut and splice more wire to make the meter work), and I appear to be missing one of the wires that runs from the solenoid to the neutral start switch.
We are getting close to finished! Right now, I am rebuilding the carburetor with new gaskets, a new float needle, and lots of carb cleaner…the old gas in it was starting to build up and looked like coffee. Just need to charge the battery, mount the carburetor, fill up the gas tank, and we will see if the 210 will come to life!
Power Door Locks & Wiring Diagram
Amazon Printed Books
Amazon Kindle Edition
Advanced power door lock management is a necessity now given today’s complex automotive systems. The need to reduce vehicle weight has prompted these more complex module driven door lock circuits. Topics such as module or computer controlled door locks, current flow, voltage, network communication between door lock modules, ground circuits and more.
Presented here using CG animations and graphing software to explain the topics. Part of our wiring diagram interpretation and electrical series videos on this channel. Enjoy…
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