2017 Latest Design Miniature Circuit Breaker FTB1 to Gambia Manufacturer


Technical data

Product illustration

Tripping characteristic

Exterior and dimensions

Related video

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Product illustration:



 Auxiliary contact Auxiliary contact and alarm contact  Shunt release Shunt release and auxiliary contact  Under voltage release  Over voltage release  Busbar mounting base  Motor-driven operation


Product Features

Under normal condition, the working principle of main thermostic bimetal in FTB1 SMCB is the same to the usual circuit breakers, it is used for overload tripping. when there is a short-circuit on a branch circuit breaker, the magnet core in the main current path would tilt the moving contact away from the fixed contact to break the circuit,thus producing the electric arc, and limiting the short-circuit current effectively.

In the maintime,the short-circuit current flow to the supplementary current path, a selective resistor and a selective bimetal are connected in series of the supplementary curret path, limiting the short-circuit current to a few hundred amps.

When the downstream circuit-breaker has tripped because of a short-circuit, the contact tips reclose automatically through a simple spring-type system,ensuring other unaffected branch circuits continue in operation.If a short-circuit occur between the FTB1 and the downstream circuit-breaker, another bimetal release enables short-time delayed tripping,ensuring the contact tips remain in the open position enabling isolating.


Scope of use

It is primarily used in critical installations,for instance, office buiding, laboratory, theatre, museum, hotel, shopping mall, telecommunication, coal mine and shipping, chemical industry and metallurgy, industrial plants,medical and health care, bank and securities exchange,airport, underground express way, military establishment and similar loads that requires non-interrupted and reliable power supply.

Technical Data

Model FTB1-100
Number of poles  ada
Rated frequency: AC 50(60)Hz
Rated voltage (V) AC 230/400
Rated current (A) 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63,80,100
Breaking capacity  Icn/Ics(KA) LH 15/7.525/12.5
Rated impulse withstand voltage (kV) 6
Tripping characteristic E
Electric arc distance(mm) ≤35
Mechanical life 10,000
Insulation function yes
Pollution degree
Ambient temperature (°C) -5°C ~ +40°C
Altitude (m) Not higher than 2000m
Installation Mounted on DIN rail, busbar adaptor or by screw terminal
Connection capacity: Connection to cables,busbars or terminals
Weight (g) 313      617       932       1241


 Trippping behavior


Test Tripping characteristic Conventional non-tripping current Conventional tripping current Initial status Tripping time
a b E E 1.05In 1.2In Cold statusRight after test 1 ≧2h﹤2h
Test Tripping characteristic Delayed tripping current short-time delayed tripping current Initial status Tripping time
c E 5In   Cold status 0.05s<t<5s(In≦32A)   0.05s<t<10s(In>32A)
d E   6.25In Cold status 0.01s﹤t﹤0.3s

Coordination table

The FTB1 series operates selectively with respect to the combination with MCBs

MCB(B,C characteristic) FTB1(Characteristic E)
In A 20 25 32 40 50 63 80 100
10 T T T T T T T T
16 T T T T T T T
20 T T T T T T
25 T T T T T
32 T T T T
40 T T T
50 T T
63 T

Note: T represents total selectivity



Tripping characteristic

adfa (3)

Exterior and dimensions

adfa (4)

I need to know how to fix a Sony TV that won’t turn on.

Change out the batteries in the remote control.

The batteries in the remote are relatively new.

I’m assuming no one has actually sat on the remote control recently.

If it were that obvious, I wouldn’t be asking for your help.

I wonder if you’ve got too much stuff plugged into that wall outlet next to the TV.

That’s what a power strip is for.

The modern smart TV is an energy hog, and the TV may not get enough power if you’ve got a gaming console, DVR, DVD player and a bunch of other stuff plugged into the power strip.

I’ve played games off the gaming console with the TV turned on and working before, so I don’t think that’s it.

That doesn’t mean you didn’t turn the power strip back on the last time you turned it off to hard reboot the gaming console.

I can check, but I don’t think it is off.

I’m assuming nothing blew the circuit breaker in the house or the fuses either.

Then the gaming console couldn’t come on.

The worse scenario is that you’ve heard a popping sound and had the screen go black for a while before returning until the last couple capacitors blew, and now the only lights that can light up are the light on the bottom of the screen.

I’ve heard you can replace the capacitors yourself.

If you had the skills to replace the caps yourself, you’d have already checked the voltage to the mother board and T-con boards to see if those were why the screen was dark.

At least if it is the capacitors that were the problem, I could tell which ones because they were big and puffy.

If the Sony TV has five flashing lights of the red LED, it thinks it has a short in one of the boards. If the LED is dark, a power supply or cord is dead.

There are several boards in the TV.

The Sony TV line uses red flashing lights as an error message. For example, if the TV flashes five times, it thinks the logic board or power board is the problem.

If the power board has burned out, that would explain a dark screen.

Three flashes means the power board is bad or the logic board is.

I can figure that out with a multimeter. If I get normal voltage on the power board, it is the logic board.

If the TV flashes five times, it could be a bad panel connection, too.

It isn’t like someone hit the screen with something, shaking the panel connection loose.

And if the screen were dark after a big crack was put on it, you wouldn’t be asking me why it wasn’t working. However, if the error code is four flashes, the LD board or logic board are the problem.

I don’t even know which ones those are.

Six flashes may be the inverter board, power board or backlight.

If the back light went out, I’d just have a darker display. Power board or inverter dead, that would be a totally dark display.

If the TV goes dark after being on for a long time, then it might have gone to sleep.

I don’t use the sleep timer.

Then you better hope it isn’t shutting off because it is overheating.

Then the next thing to overheat is my wallet.

This video shows you how to locate and replace the fuse inside a fan. In some fans, the fuse is hidden inside one of the short fiberglass sleeves (gold color bundle in the picture) that cover the connections between the motor windings and the control wires. There is only one fuse but you will need to move cut the string and gently slide each sleeve until you find the small (grain of rice size) fuse. . What follows is informative feedback from a viewer with precise terminology for the circuit elements of interest.
Joshua Prince commented on a video on YouTube.
Shared publicly – 5:55 AM

Actually, clarification. The black square component you refer to at the start is not quite a fuse, as it wont trip off from over current. There really exists no fuse component in AC powered devices, but instead, are circuit breaker switches. Fuses are more common in DC devices. Not all devices, but some will have breakers, or also known as OVP switches (over voltage protection).

How can u tell if thermal switch??? From the way its placed. If you notice see how its tied against the coil directly?? Thats for a reason. Its a thermal safety relay/switch. It gets tripped off when the coil gets extreme hot, to prevent the coil catching on fire.. And usually the thermal switch has been set off, breaking the circuit and coils get no power. Direct contact, and heat transfers inductively. Now it has to be replaced with same rated replacement. Brand makes no differenc3. Just rating. And then fan bearings both front and rear bearings need lube, and if excess dust, cleaning. Which usually is why heated up firstly. Dust and worn dry bearings bottleneck the coils.

Once again to clarify its a thermal switch, not a fuse, or as i mentioned circuit breaker, which usually can be found on outdoor use AC current powered devices, such as air compressors, heat lamps, higher wattage lighting systems. So little black square component is an thermal switch. Usually rated around 115-120°f on 110-115v AC. Its the same in sense of an OVP Circuit breaker switch, where if the current exceeds the max rating allowed, it will trip it to the off position. In this case, if the coils on the stater gets too hot, or reaches max allowed.

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