Factory made hot-sale FTK1 (1A) (GCK1) Low Voltage Withdrawable Distribution Cabinet for Japan Manufacturers


Technical data

Product illustration

Tripping characteristic

Exterior and dimensions

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The FTK1 (GCK1) series is suitable in low voltage distribution systems with AC 50Hz,rated voltages 380 to 660v, for the use of powering, feeding, bus couplering, lighting, motor control and power compensating.

It includes power center (PC) and the motor control center (MCC) function, to meet the use of industrial and mining enterprises, high-level hotels, airports, hospitals power supply, distribution and power control.



FTK1 (1A) (GCK1) Low Volttion Cabinet2

Why did I do this?

I installed the Magnus Street Intake Manifold. A battery relocation is one of many required modifications that has to be done in order to support using that part because the throttle body location moves in such a way that the battery and upper intercooler pipe share space. There’s lots of other reasons for doing this, though.

How did I do it?

I used the Summit Universal battery box (with 1gauge main cables and Summit install kit)
140A DC circuit breaker (for main line)
100A DC circuit breaker (for alternator)
4-gauge in-line fuse holder with 80A BUSS fuse (for alternator)
4-way non-fuesed distribution block (main line)
2-way non-fuesed distribution block (main line)
2-way fused distribution block (audio)
15 feet of 4gauge wire (for alternator)
solder terminals for 0/1 gauge
shrink tubing (Lowes’/HomeDepot electrical) for underground junctions
some scrap steel
35-40 feet of welding wire and a couple-dozen pounds of Argon/CO2.
1 cut-off wheel

This installation DOES NOT CONFORM to any sanctioned racing requirements because there IS NO CUTOFF SWITCH on this setup. Though it would be an easy thing to install, this is a 11-12 second street/show car that does NOT have a roll cage, nor does it need some idiot joker in a parking lot cutting power to my ECU and wiping out my fuel settings. The box is sealed and vented outside the car. It’s welded to the floor, and everything is shielded and protected. If the main breaker trips, it cuts power to everything electrical. The starter and everything but the alternator are connected to the main line.

The alternator runs from the battery pole of the main, so that if the breaker trips, it can’t keep powering the ECU, fuel pump, etc… This is the safest way to do this. It’s crucial for the main breaker to function exactly the way a cut-off switch would. Wiring the alternator on the battery side of the main breaker allows the car to kill every other system, thus stopping the alternator. If the alternator wire shorts out independently of the main, there’s an 80A fuse in the front of the car, and a 100A breaker in the back. It’s redundant, but necessary. Fire is bad. The car continuing to run when you wreck and something shorts out and blows the main breaker, but your alternator keeps powering the relay box because it’s not home-run to the battery… still hooked up the way it is from the factory… that’s not so good.

There’s an added convenience to it, though. You can kill the live alternator wire for servicing the engine by resetting the alternator breaker, eliminating a hazard, but still maintain power to your ECU.

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