Factory Outlets Miniature circuit breaker-FTM8-LE to Johannesburg Factory


Technical data

Product illustration

Tripping characteristic

Exterior and dimensions

Related video

Our well-equipped facilities and excellent quality control throughout all stages of production enables us to guarantee total customer satisfaction for Factory Outlets Miniature circuit breaker-FTM8-LE to Johannesburg Factory, We also ensure that your selection will be crafted with the highest quality and reliability. Please feel free to contact us for further information.

Product illustration:

Technical Data

Model FTM8LE Residual current circuit-breaker
Number of poles IP+N,2P,3P,3P+N,4P
Rated frequency: AC 50/60Hz
Rated voltage (V) AC 230/400
 Rated current (A) C D 1,3,6,10,16,20,25,32,40,50,63 1,3,6,10,16,20,25,32,40,50,63
Rated residual operating current(mA) 30
Rated residual non-operating current(mA) 15
Residual current breaking time 30mA≦0.1s  250mA≦0.04s
Rated short-circuit breaking capacity(KA) 6(In≦40A); 4.5(In﹥40A)
Rated residual current breaking capacity(KA) 3
Mechanical & electrical life: 10,000 operations
protection rating Ip20
Installation On DIN rail 35mm according to JB6525
Connection capacity: Cross-section of conductors up to 25mm2
Tightening torque 2 Nm
Ambient temperature (°C) -5°C ~ +40°C
Altitude (m) ≤2000m
Relative air humidity no more than 95%
pollution degree
installation condition Used in place without obvious shock and vibration
 Weight (g) ≦32A ﹥40A ≦32A ﹥40A ≦32A ﹥40A ≦32A ﹥40A ≦32A ﹥40A
216 240 320 343 445 473 468 518 585 63

Exterior and dimensions



 Number  of poles Rated current
<40A ≥40A
Width (mm) Modules Width(mm) Modules
1 /2 45 2.5 54 3
2/2 63 3.5 72 4
3/3 90 5 103.5 5.75
3 /4 99 5.5 117 6.5
4/4 117 6.5 135 7.5

This video from Sears PartsDirect shows how to troubleshoot when your electric water heater is making your water too hot. Overheating can be a dangerous problem. Aside from possible burning, overheated water could be a sign of a short-circuited heating element or a malfunctioning thermostat. You should use caution and shut off the power supply to the water heater before troubleshooting an overheating problem. This video will show you how safely check continuity on the various parts and wires inside your water heater so that you can find the correct part to get your system up and running correctly.

Visit us at http://www.searspartsdirect.com?sid=soc:youtube:electric-water-heater-troubleshooting-water-too-hot

Or call 1-800-437-1673 to speak with a parts specialist.

The video includes these parts and tools. Look up your model to make sure you get the right parts for your water heater.


Heating element




Find parts for your water heater at:


Or click here to schedule an appointment with a repair technician.


Hi, this is Wayne with Sears PartsDirect. Today we’re going to talk about an electric water heater that’s overheating. Nobody expects their tap water to be scalding hot. For safety’s sake, your tap water should never be hotter than 120 degrees. But that’s what can happen if your water heater has a shorted heating element or a broken thermostat. A thermostat that’s stuck in the “on” position will cause the heating element to stay on constantly, overheating the water in the tank. Or, if the element breaks, it can make contact with metal inside the water heater, creating a short circuit. Electric current flows through the element to the metal, causing the element to heat constantly. We’ll want to check for a short circuit first because it creates a dangerous electrical shock hazard. If you suspect that you have a shorted heating element, do not touch the cabinet until you have turned off the circuit breakers. Do not turn the circuit breakers back on until after you have repaired the heating element or the wiring. We’ll use a multi-meter to check the elements for a short to the metal cabinet. If you don’t have a multi-meter, you can find one at Sears PartsDirect.com. With the house circuit breakers shut off, remove the cover on the lower heating element. Pull the insulation and plastic cover up to access the heating element leads. Set your multi-meter to measure resistance. Touch a meter probe to one of the leads on the element and put the other meter probe on the bare metal frame next to the element. You should see a 1 the far left corner of the meter display indicating “no continuity”. No continuity means that there is not current flowing to the metal cabinet. If you measure any resistance between the element lead and the metal cabinet, then the element is shorted and needs to be replaced. Be sure to check both sides of the heating element. If you don’t measure continuity from the element to the cabinet, check the resistance through the element to see if it’s okay. Touch one meter probe to each of the element leads. A good heating element will measure about 13 ohms of resistance. If you do measure 13 ohms of resistance through the element and “no continuity” to the metal cabinet, then you know that the heating element is okay. If you measure “no continuity” through the element, drain the tank and replace the element. This video will walk you though that process. Check the upper heating element for a short to the metal cabinet in the same manner. Replace the upper heating element if it’s broken and/or shorting to the metal cabinet. If you don’t find a problem with the heating elements, then you know a broken thermostat is what’s causing the water to overheat. So which one do you replace? Unfortunately, there is no way to test the thermostats to see if they’re turning off the elements when they’re supposed to. You can try replacing the lower thermostat and see if that resolves your overheating problem. If not, you’ll need to replace the upper thermostat as well. This video will walk you through replacing a thermostat. Well I hope this video helped you out today. Check out our other videos on the YouTube channel and if you like them, subscribe!

Eaton’s new compact RCBOs leave more room to manoeuvre
The new range of compact RCBOs from Eaton offers easier and faster wiring in consumer units and distribution boards. With the new devices 20mm shorter than their standard counterparts, they make much more room available for wiring, eliminating the need for users to struggle to make multiple connections in a confined space. Compatible with Eaton’s current range of Memera consumer units and Memshield 3 distribution boards.


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