New Delivery for Miniature Circuit Breaker FTB1 for Victoria Importers
Exterior and dimensions
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|Auxiliary contact||Auxiliary contact and alarm contact||Shunt release||Shunt release and auxiliary contact||Under voltage release||Over voltage release||Busbar mounting base||Motor-driven operation|
Under normal condition, the working principle of main thermostic bimetal in FTB1 SMCB is the same to the usual circuit breakers, it is used for overload tripping. when there is a short-circuit on a branch circuit breaker, the magnet core in the main current path would tilt the moving contact away from the fixed contact to break the circuit,thus producing the electric arc, and limiting the short-circuit current effectively.
In the maintime,the short-circuit current flow to the supplementary current path, a selective resistor and a selective bimetal are connected in series of the supplementary curret path, limiting the short-circuit current to a few hundred amps.
When the downstream circuit-breaker has tripped because of a short-circuit, the contact tips reclose automatically through a simple spring-type system,ensuring other unaffected branch circuits continue in operation.If a short-circuit occur between the FTB1 and the downstream circuit-breaker, another bimetal release enables short-time delayed tripping,ensuring the contact tips remain in the open position enabling isolating.
Scope of use
It is primarily used in critical installations,for instance, office buiding, laboratory, theatre, museum, hotel, shopping mall, telecommunication, coal mine and shipping, chemical industry and metallurgy, industrial plants,medical and health care, bank and securities exchange,airport, underground express way, military establishment and similar loads that requires non-interrupted and reliable power supply.
|Test||Tripping characteristic||Conventional non-tripping current||Conventional tripping current||Initial status||Tripping time|
|a b||E E||1.05In||1.2In||Cold statusRight after test 1||≧2h﹤2h|
|Test||Tripping characteristic||Delayed tripping current||short-time delayed tripping current||Initial status||Tripping time|
|c||E||5In||Cold status||0.05s<t<5s(In≦32A) 0.05s<t<10s(In>32A)|
The FTB1 series operates selectively with respect to the combination with MCBs
|MCB(B,C characteristic) FTB1(Characteristic E)|
Note: T represents total selectivity
Exterior and dimensions
Click here if you need replacement parts for your opener → https://goo.gl/EUHkMp
Be sure to click “show more” read the full description below for more help and more detailed repair videos.
0:40 NO POWER
-First check the breaker switch
-If that is good you may have a burned out power circuit board
1:20 REMOTE WORKS BUT WON’T OPEN DOOR
-Check to see if the ‘Lock’ mode is engaged
2:19 LIGHTBULB FLASHES WHEN BUTTON IS PUSHED – CHECK THE SENSORS [most common failure]
-Verify that nothing is in between the two sensors
-Make sure the sensors are aligned
-Verify that both sensors have lit LEDs
-Verify no dirt or spiderwebs are blocking the sensors
-Check the wires for breaks and follow them back to the opener unit. Make sure they are completely inserted.
-Sometimes snow can cause the sensor to trip. Even morning/afternoon sunlight shining into the sensor lens can cause it to trip.
-Override the sensor by holding down the button. If the door closes properly, you know you have a sensor issue. Sensors can fail but it is not common.
Watch this video for more info: http://youtu.be/CewKaLlns0Q
5:18 REMOTE NOT WORKING
-If you need to push the remote several times to get it to work, that is a sign the battery is going bad.
-Most opener remotes use a CR2032 battery.
-Here is a video on how to test a GENIE remote battery http://youtu.be/N4qSkBzBTW4
6:13 HOW TO PROGRAM THE REMOTE
-Push the ‘Learn’ button and then the remote button to link the remote to the opener. The lights will flash.
6:40 KEYPAD OPENER NOT WORKING WELL
-Replace the 9volt battery
7:12 How to set the HOMELINK built in car remote opener
Watch this video: http://youtu.be/7j9TWrRIQi0
7:30 SOMETIMES THE REMOTE OPENS THE DOOR AND SOMETIMES NOT
-If your remote only works when it is super close, the battery in the remote is bad or the antenna wire is broken or needs to be soldered.
Here is a video on repairing the solder joints: http://youtu.be/I_yzesvN8AI
-The main circuit-board may need to be replaced. Here is a video on how to do that: http://youtu.be/1svaanF5Ka0
-You may also be having LED interference. LED lightbulbs can emit a RF [radio frequency] that is in conflict with the RF that the remotes use.
9:54 Motor making weird noise or weird noise coming from unit and the door won’t open or close
-Check the capacitor. If leaking it definitely needs to be replaced.
11:06 CHAIN IS HANGING OR DROOPING
-Check to see if the gear at the top broke. You cant reattach it, you will need to buy a new gear set. This is usually caused by a chain that is too tight but it could also be a result of a door that is not balanced. An unbalanced door is a result of a torsion spring failure.
-If the gear did not snap off you may have just a loose chain that needs to be put back on and tightened.
13:19 DOOR BALANCING TEST
-Close the door and pull the safety cord. You should be able to open and close the door with not much effort. The door should also be able to stay half open by itself.
15:12 DOOR NOT OPENING OR CLOSING WELL – TORSION SPRING
-Check to see if the spring has slipped off one end or broke in half
-You may need to adjust the spring. [not an easy job]
16:20 DOOR STARTS TO CLOSE BUT THEN REOPENS – TRACK ALIGNMENT
-Assuming the sensors have been checked, look to see if your tracks are out of alignment. I have a video on how to do that here: http://youtu.be/CewKaLlns0Q?t=1m38s
17:05 CHAIN IS MAKING NOISE – TOO LOOSE
-Loose chains can cause damage to other parts. Tighten it just to the point that it is not hitting anything. Don’t try to eliminate all the sag.
18:37 NOTHING WORKED, MY DOOR STILL HAS PROBLEMS
-Check for loose nuts and bolts. Try to find something that does not look right.
-Ask a question in the comment section about your specific problem and I will do my best to answer.
If your garage door is making a lot of noise you may just need to lubricate it or make some minor adjustments. Here is a video that addresses that: http://youtu.be/csHpg2ZuWXI
This is a video on how to build a simple EMP generator step by step. The video shows an Electromagnetic pulse disrupting a cell phone and an electronic handheld video game. The EMP is built using a flash circuit of a disposable camera and with this, the capacitor bank is charged up and the pulse is activated at the electronic device.
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Sorry for my monotone voice.
Enamel coded wire (thicker the better)
Push button (optional)
Flat head screw driver (for prying)
Stranded core wire
Tube/cup, or circular object with diameter of 2 inches or about 5 centimeters
EMP schematic diagram: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4pak1c8ejp73zl0/EMP%20Schematic%20diagram.PNG?dl=0
[Let me know if the link does not work]
Like and subscribe for more videos;)
Any questions? Comment them below and I will answer them to the best of my ability.
Be sure to check out my new video, “Can we EMP an IPhone?”: https://youtu.be/4IRCq0fbX48