professional factory for Miniature circuit breaker-FTM8-LE to Russia Manufacturer


Technical data

Product illustration

Tripping characteristic

Exterior and dimensions

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Product illustration:

Technical Data

Model FTM8LE Residual current circuit-breaker
Number of poles IP+N,2P,3P,3P+N,4P
Rated frequency: AC 50/60Hz
Rated voltage (V) AC 230/400
 Rated current (A) C D 1,3,6,10,16,20,25,32,40,50,63 1,3,6,10,16,20,25,32,40,50,63
Rated residual operating current(mA) 30
Rated residual non-operating current(mA) 15
Residual current breaking time 30mA≦0.1s  250mA≦0.04s
Rated short-circuit breaking capacity(KA) 6(In≦40A); 4.5(In﹥40A)
Rated residual current breaking capacity(KA) 3
Mechanical & electrical life: 10,000 operations
protection rating Ip20
Installation On DIN rail 35mm according to JB6525
Connection capacity: Cross-section of conductors up to 25mm2
Tightening torque 2 Nm
Ambient temperature (°C) -5°C ~ +40°C
Altitude (m) ≤2000m
Relative air humidity no more than 95%
pollution degree
installation condition Used in place without obvious shock and vibration
 Weight (g) ≦32A ﹥40A ≦32A ﹥40A ≦32A ﹥40A ≦32A ﹥40A ≦32A ﹥40A
216 240 320 343 445 473 468 518 585 63

Exterior and dimensions



 Number  of poles Rated current
<40A ≥40A
Width (mm) Modules Width(mm) Modules
1 /2 45 2.5 54 3
2/2 63 3.5 72 4
3/3 90 5 103.5 5.75
3 /4 99 5.5 117 6.5
4/4 117 6.5 135 7.5

Why is my water heater blowing fuses?

That’s more common with an electric furnace or air conditioner.

That does not help me with my water heater that isn’t heating water.

My first question is whether or not you’ve plugged it in correctly. A hot water heater usually needs to be plugged into a properly wired connection, not the wall outlet.

The only thing plugged into a wall outlet in the water heater is the leak monitoring system.

If you have too many things plugged into the same connection as the water heater, like a clothes dryer, the load could blow the fuse.

The clothes dryer has its own electrical plug.

Check the fuses themselves. If you blew a fuse during a thunder storm and put a new fuse in that’s too low for the load, it will keep blowing when both heating elements in the water heater turn on.

If the fuse was too low for a hot water heater, I’d be replacing the other half dozen fuses in the box. But I do not have to, while the other fuses handle heavy loads.

You might have problems with the heating elements drawing way too much power, blowing the fuse.

That does not sound good.

If it is pulling too much power, you have an electrical problem.

You’d think there was a safety precaution in place to prevent that.

There is, the fuse. And if the heating elements are way too hot, they may get shut down via overheating sensors and the temperature pressure relief valves.

What else could be blowing the fuses, if it isn’t excessive power draw? After all, the thing does not seem to be overheating.

It could be as simple as a loose wire. Or it could be something as complicated as a water leak on the wiring that is shorting out the fuses.

I did not think it was a water leak, since the water leak sensor is not going off.

It won’t go off if the water leak detector has shorted out, or if the water leak is near the top of the wiring and dripping down the wires and down the wall.

I’ll check for the leaks, but what else could it be?

A bad heating element that is drawing way too much power when kicked in.

That’s at least an easy thing to replace. And common too.

If one heating element is bad, you’re drawing extra power running the remaining one more often, until that one burns out too.

I’d know that happened if I cannot get hot water after replacing the breaker.

You can blow a fuse if the t-stat or temperature thermostat is bad too, causing it to draw too much current before getting things too hot.

At least now I have an idea of what to replace before the repairman burns a hole in my wallet.

This is my Ignition coil driver using a 12V 40A car relay and including a 500V 22uf capacitor. I also include details of how I wired the circuit. I realise there are many videos of relay driven coils out there, but in my opinion the details of how to wire the relay circuit is sketchy. I hope my description will be more helpful. Any comments on improvement and how to get longer sparks would be appreciated. I originally powered this setup using a Mains 12V 1.5A adapter, however I received a minor shock whilst trying to switch the adapter off at the wall socket, can anyone tell me why this happened? The relay I used has terminals numbered 85 86 87 87a and 30. It does not say which terminals are the NC terminals which most people use. Hope you find this video useful as not only do I show sparks, but also include details of how its wired in a diagram.
The relay is wired to produce pulsed DC whch is input to the ignition coil. These pulses are produced by the relay making and breaking its connection many times per second. On the breaking of the connection the magnetic field inside the ignition coil collapses suddenly and induces massive voltage in the coils secondary windings.

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