Reliable Supplier Miniature circuit breaker-FTB10 for Oslo Factories


Technical data

Product illustration

Tripping characteristic

Exterior and dimensions

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Model: FTB10
Pole: 1P+N
Rated current (A): 6,10,16,20,25,32,40
Rated frequency: 50
Rated voltage (V): 230
Rated impulse withstand voltage Uimp(KV): 4
Breaking Capacity: 6
Operating cycle times /hour 240
Power on 4500
Power off 10000
Conventional non-tripping current: 1.13In t≤1h
Conventionaltripping current: 1.45In t<1h
2.55In 1s<t<60
Instantaneous tripping type: C
Instantaneous non-tripping current: t≤0.1s 5In
Instantaneous tripping current: t<0.1s 10In
Connection Wire ㎜²: Min/Max 1/10
Size(L×W×G)mm 1P+N 74.2×18×80

How to clean, examine, troubleshoot and track a problem with a dehumidifier. This will likely help you with any dehumidifier or air conditioner or refrigerator that is not working. Please understand that this is a documentation of a repair attempt that I made and it is for informational use. Anyone attempting to do such a repair should not proceed unless they have taken a course in electronics and understand electricity and how it can hurt you. If you have not been properly trained and are not confident then don’t do it.

The following is the script for this with a few extra comments…

I’m showing a series of images of the disassembly and cleaning of this unit while I narrate.

Generally I’m pretty much a fixit and reuse it enthusiast and I benefit very much from what I learn online from others who have fixed the same or similar items. So I did a photo play by play of this fix attempt.

I think it will help you in knowing what to expect and what can go wrong with a dehumidifier appliance. This one is a Whirlpool Accudry Dehumidifier… Model # AD25G0

Of course the first step to a repair like this is to do a quick web search using the name and model number of your appliance to look for the manual and parts list assuming you don’t have them. If you’re really lucking it my lead you to a “how to… repair… Video”
After checking the trouble shooting suggestions in the manual it’s time for what you’ve been watching for the last 45 seconds. Fortunately all the screws on the chassis were the same size and with a power screwdriver you can have them all off in no time. You have to watch and carefully analyze plastic tabs on the cases so you don’t break anything. Patience is your friend and if you’re losing it you need to step away for a while. You have to realize that though something seems to be stuck like a puzzle there’s tab to push somewhere and you just have to solve it by thinking.

The problem with this particular unit is that while fan runs, the compressor doesn’t pump the coolant so it doesn’t get cold and condense water. Using a voltage meter you can determine where the electricity is going and where it’s disrupted. You have to remember to put the collection bucket in place while testing because there’s a trip switch that cuts the power when the bucket’s not in place.

The power I discovered gets all the way to the compressor and to take it a step further I have to remove this metal retainer that’s holding an insulated cover. Remove this only with the power off. Clearly it’s insulated for a reason. Removal of the cover reveals two more components before the compressor. According to the parts list the round cylinder is called the Overload Protector. I found that the current goes in one side but does not come out the other side.

It looks like this is permanently mounted but with the power off again I find it to be another retaining device called the overload spring and by pushing it down it pops free. Upon flipping over the Overload Protector we can see what has happened. The Overload Protector (which is like a fuse) has burned out. This is a pretty bad sign because for something like this to happen there was a pretty heavy load on the circuit and most likely the compressor has seized rendering the unit not worth fixing. This is pretty much the heart of the unit with metal pressure tubes attached.

It’s pretty safe to assume it’s time to recycle this unit. However since you’ve been patient enough to watch up to this point. I’ll do one more thing that you should never do. I’m going to bypass the Overload protector which will lead to some fireworks so I’m going to use a thin piece of soldier that will melt like a fuse if the compressor is seized. I’m also using a power-strip with it’s own fuse as another safety precaution. Don’t try this at home…

For the most part the demo is over but for those in the manufacturing industry lets reexamine our goals as human beings in a shared biosphere.

Planned obsolescence is a painfully shortsighted business plan, but when you manufacture something that contains freon as well, it’s damaging to our shared environment. This Whirlpool unit should have lasted a lifetime but a seized compressor has rendered it useless. The unit contains a gas element that when released causes serious environmental damage in this case depletion of the ozone.

This event causes me to reevaluate Whirlpool which I had previously considered a world class corporation. How can I or any viewer of this video ever consider buying a Whirlpool appliance again? I would invite any member of the board of directors at Whirlpool to respond to this question. I don’t want to hear “Everyone else is manufacturing at a sweatshop in China and we have to stay competitive.” You’re Whirlpool!”

Electrical 200 amp service power from pole to garage then feed underground to house 200 A panel. 100 A garage sub panel.From meter base outside to 200 A fused disconnect then feeds splitter.From splitter feeds house panel not shown. Generator to feed to splitter as well. Future to feed solar panels to splitter as well. 2/0 awg cable for 200 amp service. #3 awg for garage 100A panel.

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